How-To: Use Photomatix to make HDR images(56k slow)

[Kodatech]

Here is a tutorial in HDR for Photomatix users. It is a bit more simple than my last tutorial.

So, you want your normal photo like this:

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/72/l_4ac6a5943127401db71d48f95663d2bb.jpg

To look more like THIS:

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/83/l_934c8b69d4c04ad4a6421b79f667c576.jpg

It is very easy to do with a few items, and a program called Photomatix.

Download the trial at www.hdrsoft.com
(I am in NO WAY affiliated with them, but if you DL the trial you will upgrade im sure!! It is great!)

First, you will need a camera that brackets images, and a STURDY tripod.
Go out and find something to take a photo of.
I usually bracket 8 or 9 images at 1 EV spacing.

Ok so once you have your photos, they should look something like this:
+4EV
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/106/m_c794ff8b3cf447318dbeb142c6c2681c.jpg
+3EV
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/76/m_3b7190728a21464dbb1ea865336f9f13.jpg
+2EV
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/74/m_70c23955e1494bbbbb07a8b4057287b2.jpg
+1EV
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/98/m_61cffad884b44a3686385b750585e617.jpg
0.0EV--The "proper" exposure according to my Nikon D40 light meter
http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/72/m_4ac6a5943127401db71d48f95663d2bb.jpg
-1EV
http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/111/m_52c43123fa5a4f7280d03d59378b8de4.jpg
-2EV
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/80/m_65d32cfef1fd45bb8c5b2ea824234902.jpg
-3EV
http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/66/m_80eca3dca2c9408f8337cdbce0988266.jpg


Open Photomatix and click "generate HDR". Choose the photos you want to merge then click the "OK" button while you are at this screen:

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/85/l_d0bde35d3bdd4eec881b4b031ac387bd.jpg


That will then pop a window up that looks something like this:

http://c4.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/97/l_4608d8022608412c8eaaa15744ff1fd3.jpg

I usually just leave all of these settings at the default, but experiment with your photos, you may find a setting that works better if adjusted.

Now click the "ok" button and wait....your computer will try to melt if it isn't
very fast.

When your computer finishes melting the processor(this stuff eats up memory) you will end up with a screen like this:

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/97/l_eb28d56d4a5342eba69f6d2a45b24f18.jpg

It doesnt look anything like the finished product...thats because your computer monitor cannot display a 32 bit image properly, in fact you cant even print it without it looking like crap!

Click the "tone mapping" button and you can change all that!

After you click "tone mapping" your screen will look something like this:

http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/65/l_8ff8755a31d04f23a6ffbc6a6f4299c2.jpg

Now experiment and move the sliders until you find a combination that makes the photo look how you want it to.

When you are done, click the "process" button, and you will see a screen like this:

http://c2.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/93/l_ebf29802fd104f3581829ac850357611.jpg

Save your file!!! You are finished!!!


After all this I usually open Photoshop(whatever version) and clean it up a bit with noise reduction and sharpening, whatever filters you would normally use on a photo.

Have fun!!

[Diamond Lil]

Outstanding! Thank you. This really helps those of us without Photoshop.

[Kodatech]

It is a great program. Tude posted a link to one here--> http://www.hdrlabs.com/picturenaut/index.html That he found. I didnt even know it was out there till he posted the link. I am going to download and try it out soon.

[tude]

Awesome tutorial KT but damn a bunch of exposures!
Do you always use 8 for your HDR?
I mean your stuff is awesome but wow that's a lot of work and I am pretty well... lazy:D
Do you manipulate the exp in PS or shoot all 8 in the camera?

[Kodatech]

I shoot all 8 in camera. My Nikon D40 doesn't do Auto bracketing, I set the camera to Full-Manual mode, and then turn the thumbwheel to change shutter speed between exposures. The aperture, focus, white balance and all the rest stay locked while I turn the thumb wheel.

I have found that 8 or 9 exposures captures MORE than enough of the luminance in the scene.....I look at it this way....its 2 or 3 more clicks of the shutter to make damn-SURE I get it right. If I have too many....oh well....not enough?....hmmmm...cant fix that once I move the tripod.


HDR is alot of work, but I really like the result....my FAVORITE HDR-Images I have shot to date are the Silos on my Flickr Page. I need to try to out-do those(my personal goal, im pretty amateur)









Oh one more thing...the processing is a bit of work, but once you have done a few and you get your workflow down it is nothing....Merge in PS...Tone Map In P-matix....touch up in PS. The pictures are easy to bracket....Click, turn wheel, click, turn wheel ...repeat lol

[Kodatech]

Oh hey I forgot. You can do it alot easier by shooting in RAW. Then you only need ONE photo. Just open it in Photomatix. Just be warned it is not a true HDR, and the limits of the exposure are stretched, and as a result the quality can degrade if overdone.


Pseudo HDR may be just what you are looking for though...These images below were taken using ONE RAW image, and processed using Photomatix, then of course cleaned up in PS.

Pseudo HDR photos

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3220/3125933080_f4d460b085.jpg?v=0
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3225/3112522136_33ed96bfbe.jpg?v=0


Here is the ORIGINAL, STRAIGHT from the camera Image of the Chevelle SS. Normal processing, see how the exposure is stretched to the limits?


Normal processed photo

http://c1.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/5/l_59b9c4202d2040840347ee67c402db64.jpg

[Diamond Lil]

The difference is incredible to me.


So, are there cameras one can purchase that have dynamic range big enough to capture the vivid images anywhere near this?

[Kodatech]

The difference is incredible to me.


So, are there cameras one can purchase that have dynamic range big enough to capture the vivid images anywhere near this?


Not quite. If you have a fairly new Digital SLR, the sensor on it is good enough to capture a "medium dynamic range"

MUCH more than a standard point and shoot...but still not quite what your eye is capable of.

If you have a camera that shoots in RAW format, you can do what I did to the chevelle.

Your digital Rebel should be able to do shots like the Chevelle..they were taken with my Nikon D40.

The problem with pseudo-HDR, is just that...it is forced...photomatix takes the one RAW image, and bumps it up a stop, then down a stop, and makes 3 bracketed images from one. This method tends to create noise....that can be avoided if you shoot a scene that isnt extremely high contrast. It is tough to do with a backlit scene, but a front-lit scene can do well with a single RAW shot.

[tude]

Not quite. If you have a fairly new Digital SLR, the sensor on it is good enough to capture a "medium dynamic range"

MUCH more than a standard point and shoot...but still not quite what your eye is capable of.

If you have a camera that shoots in RAW format, you can do what I did to the chevelle.

Your digital Rebel should be able to do shots like the Chevelle..they were taken with my Nikon D40.

The problem with pseudo-HDR, is just that...it is forced...photomatix takes the one RAW image, and bumps it up a stop, then down a stop, and makes 3 bracketed images from one. This method tends to create noise....that can be avoided if you shoot a scene that isnt extremely high contrast. It is tough to do with a backlit scene, but a front-lit scene can do well with a single RAW shot.

I have never seen a D40 do that ever...
Shots like the Chevelle burnout and the 64 Galaxie are beyond the norm for photogs using a D700..
Sic work!

[Diamond Lil]

Is film better? It has been a long time, but I used to shoot kodachromes and then print if desirable. The prints were always vivid.

[Kodatech]

I have never seen a D40 do that ever...
Shots like the Chevelle burnout and the 64 Galaxie are beyond the norm for photogs using a D700..
Sic work!

Thank you VERY much. Comments like that are very flattering, but I am amateur by my own admission....Still trying to get noticed in my own city lol.

One day I would like to move up to a Pro-level Nikon DSLR, but I kind of wanted my Electra-Glide First. :ride: :D all in time...

[Kodatech]

Is film better? It has been a long time, but I used to shoot kodachromes and then print if desirable. The prints were always vivid.

I shoot film with a Miranda Sensorex II. While you can not do HDR with film, film gives some effects that (in my humble opinion) cannot be achieved with digital.

I love my Nikon D40, but my Miranda Sensorex(35mm) from the 1960s is GREAT for black and white nostalgic photos. Or if you just want the grain and feel of "the real thing".

[Diamond Lil]

Man this place, tude, pegdragger, you,.....hey it is the Mikes!!!!!!!!!!! You are all taking me places I'd never considered. More, more, more,more to learn.


Night night all!

[tude]

Thank you VERY much. Comments like that are very flattering, but I am amateur by my own admission....Still trying to get noticed in my own city lol.

One day I would like to move up to a Pro-level Nikon DSLR, but I kind of wanted my Electra-Glide First. :ride: :D all in time...
Almost forgot it was Electra that 1st caught my eye:cool:

[EZE RIDER]

Thanks so much for your excellent explanation of HDR. It is very much appreciated!

I have been reading you can get two stops plus or minus out of a RAW image as opposed to 1 stop for a jpeg. Would you agree?

One more question. When you manually bracket your photos, does it have to be of stationary object? No moving cars or clouds? OK two more questions. When auto bracketing are the shots simultaneous to allow for a moving object or do the same rules apply?

[Diamond Lil]

Okay, the story. Weather is not allowing an adventure outside, so I took a previous photo, made five exposure adjusted copies and put them through the Photomatix process.

http://www.moviephotoforums.com/photopost/data/562/medium/Bell_Tower.jpg http://www.moviephotoforums.com/photopost/data/574/medium/St_Mary_s_Photomatrix.jpg?230

[Kodatech]

I see where it has expanded the range a little bit, why dont you try just opening the ONE RAW file and see how that goes? Then once you go out and experiment with true multi-exposures you will get a better feel for the program.


See how it brought out some more details in the shadows and under the arches?

[Diamond Lil]

I have to take something in RAW.

I did the adjustments keeping an eye on a few areas and the shadows and under the arches were included.

[Kodatech]

Oh I see. I ALWAYS shoot RAW. Even NON HDR stuff. It allows for better fine tuning of white balance and things like that anyway. Try it out you might like it.

[Diamond Lil]

All new things too try. Thanks!

[EZE RIDER]

Lil that HDR image is far superior to the original. Nice start. I am very busy at the moment and will mess around with this HDR stuff as soon as I get a chance.

[Diamond Lil]

Lil that HDR image is far superior to the original. Nice start. I am very busy at the moment and will mess around with this HDR stuff as soon as I get a chance.

Ed, it is truly frustrating. I want it to come out of the camera done.

[tude]

Okay, the story. Weather is not allowing an adventure outside, so I took a previous photo, made five exposure adjusted copies and put them through the Photomatix process.

http://www.moviephotoforums.com/photopost/data/562/medium/Bell_Tower.jpg http://www.moviephotoforums.com/photopost/data/574/medium/St_Mary_s_Photomatrix.jpg?230

I think this is a great example of HDR enhancement W/O overkill

[Kodatech]

Thanks so much for your excellent explanation of HDR. It is very much appreciated!

I have been reading you can get two stops plus or minus out of a RAW image as opposed to 1 stop for a jpeg. Would you agree?

One more question. When you manually bracket your photos, does it have to be of stationary object? No moving cars or clouds? OK two more questions. When auto bracketing are the shots simultaneous to allow for a moving object or do the same rules apply?

I was just reading through this and realized nobody answered you here....OOPS.

I think you can squeeze 2EV out of a RAW by going 1EV in either direction..not 2 in either direction.

If you manually or auto-bracket, you have to watch for moving objects. The shots ARE simultaneous, but once you get into HDR, you will be surprised how fast some clouds move even though they LOOK stationary.


I usually reserve TRUE HDR shots for stationary objects, and when there is a moving object, I expose "properly" and open my one RAW file in Photomatix and tone-map it.

[EZE RIDER]

Thanks KT.

[Heavens Thunder]

Something I may need to use in the future and have fun. Thanks !